How Not to Travel in China During the October National Holiday

For about a month, our conversations went something like this:

“How about Thailand? If we fly in to Phuket, we could catch a ferry to X and go diving for 3 days…”

“No, no- what about the decompression time after and before the flight? I’m not keen on getting the bends. And my passport only has two free pages left. The lady at the airport in Bangkok yelled at me about that back in August. ”

“Well, how about the Philippines?”

“I’m not in the mood for a week of lethal public transport. And they’re flooding.”

“Japan?”

“Too expensive. Am unemployed, remember?”

“India?”

“I don’t have enough passport pages for a visa, remember?”

“Lijiang? Dali? Shangri La?”

“Too crowded.”

“Kashgar?”

“Flights are over $1000. Not really worth it for a 5 day holiday.”

“How about…Datong?”

“Datong? Where the hell is Datong?”

“It’s up near Inner Mongolia, in Shanxi Province. It’s the most heavily polluted coal mining town in China. Part of the Great Wall is there. They have the least holy mountain in Taoism. And a hanging monastery. And they are famous for noodles and dumplings.”

“Well, sure, let’s go!”

And so we booked our flight to Datong.  I felt a frisson of excitement whenever I thought about it. 5 days in Datong! On the foresight, it’d have taken me much to not apply for an online application and plan on never returning from the place.

I practised saying it with all the wrong tones, drawling out a gleefully languid Texan Dah Tawng rather than the accurately abrupt Dàtóng. I’m going to Daaah Taaawng, I’d drawl to anyone who’d listen. I’m going to Daaaaaaaaaah Tawwwwnnng an’ am gonna clamb thayut Big Wall o’ China an’ I’m gonna eat me some noodles! Yeeehaw!  

Chinese colleagues scratched their heads in absolute incomprehension. Where? Where are you going? Sorry?

Daaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa Taaaaaaawg! 

Yes, I am that big of an unsocialized dork.

Look at what Datong has to offer and you can see why I was getting disproportionately giddy over it.

And so on. 

So I enthusiastically busied myself with assembling a home made pdf’d travel guide, cut and pasted from all over the internet, mostly focusing on different types of noodles and grottoes. I packed my asthma inhaler and moisturizer. We stopped watching downloaded episodes of Fringe so that we could save them for watching in the hotel after a long day hiking the Great Wall.

We trekked out to the airport yesterday afternoon after a leisurely hot pot lunch and a few pots of strong coffee. Our flight was at 5pm, from Hongqiao airport in west Shanghai.

I told the taxi driver to take us to Hongqiao airport, in what I’d thought was Chinese. He threw his head back, roared with laughter, and said, in English, “Airport?” I nodded. This is why my Mandarin still sucks.

After checking in and grabbing yet another coffee (oh, crème brulée macchiato, I do love you), we went to the gate and waited for our flight. And waited. And waited.

Amongst the difficult to decipher announcements that were 98% in echoey, distorted Chinese, we caught one brief one in crackly English for our flight that said it was delayed due to mechanical issues. After that announcement, nothing more was said until everyone at our gate suddenly got up and was led away by one of the uniformed gate keepers. We followed– to another gate, we assumed.

Um, no.

The gatekeeper with the bright white shirt and impossibly tiny hips led us up the stairs and down the long hall, out past the security check point, through a staff only set of swinging doors and back out into the main entrance to the airport. And then out the airport sliding automatic doors and into a bus.

“Maybe we’re going to Terminal One?” we asked.

“Oh no, they taking us to hotel for rest!” said the woman on the seat behind us.

Oh.

The bus retraced our taxi’s route back into the city and pulled up at a hotel situated next to the elevated expressway alongside the Zhongshan 8-laned ring road. Everyone filed in and were handed key cards to their rooms in exchange for their boarding cards.

“Why are we being given hotel rooms? What’s happening with the flight?” we asked anyone who would listen.

Answers included:

It’s been cancelled.

It’s been delayed until tomorrow.

We’ll probably be rescheduled to fly to Beijing then take a train to Datong

We don’t know.

Since we have a perfectly lovely flat here in Shanghai and didn’t fancy having to stay overnight in a faceless hotel on the outskirts of the city, waiting for a flight that may or may not materialize, we called our travel agent to ask if they knew what was happening.

After calling the airline, they told me that the flight was cancelled due to a typhoon.

A typhoon in inland northern China.

Okaaaay.

They couldn’t confirm that it was 100% cancelled but they were pretty sure it was. They’d know for certain in a few hours.  If we wanted, we could go back to the airport that evening and get the airline folks to stamp our tickets and we could take that stamp to the agency counter at the airport for a full refund, no problem.

In the meantime, they said, the hotel wanted to give us a complimentary meal in the dining room on the second floor. Would we care to partake whilst we waited for news?

By now it was about an hour and a half after we should have taken off, and we were in a hotel 20 minutes away from the airport and no one was in any rush to go anywhere. All the other passengers were seated firmly around their big round tables in the red and gold dining room, eating the complimentary meal with great enthusiasm. We slunk off to the smallest empty table we could find. It was the lone table in the non-smoking section, fit for two people.  Everyone stared at us. Waiters ignored us for a solid ten minutes before one brought over a sizzling hot pot full of what appeared to be frog parts and fungus.

My favourite.

After a moment, the waiter realized his mistake and abruptly removed the sizzling frog parts and gave it to the huge table of staring people.

We waited another five minutes. A waitress filled our water glasses with very hot, grassy tea, with an inch of leaves floating on top. The glasses were too hot to touch.

Suddenly, a big plate of steaming hot corn kernels was placed on our table. I like corn but it’s on Doug’s list of unloved foods, just as fungus is at the top of mine.

After a few minutes, a plate of scrambled egg was added to our meal of tea and corn.

I should mention that eggs are at the very top of Doug’s hated food list.

Then came a dish of grated radish poached in chicken broth with a few tiny bits of pork. That was fine but tasted of unflavoured shaved cardboard, decorated with gristle and fat. Doug asked the waitress for some dark vinegar, for flavour. She looked at him blankly. We repeated our request for cù. More blank looks. We tried a few more approaches to the falling tone before another waitress finally understood what we were trying to say. We got a little cup of vinegar. The shaved cardboard wasn’t too bad with a little vinegar.

Then they brought the little bowls of soup. Each little bowl housed an enormous mushroom just below the surface of the broth.

I should note here that I’m a very open minded eater. If you recall from my Christmas party posts, I’ll eat pretty much anything that’s put in front of me. Cold offal snack plate? Okay. Fish cheeks? Sure. Mysterious aquatic creature? Why not.

But no mushrooms, no fungus, please.  I have such a deeply rooted revulsion to fungi that I even gave my mother a serious allergy to them in utero that has persisted painfully to this day.

So we sat in the noisy, smoky dining room, stared at by the other guests, faced with a complimentary meal of our most hated dishes, with no idea what was going on and no clue if we were going to be stuck there all night or if we’d ever make it to Datong at all.

We ordered a beer.

The beer was fine.

After eating as much corn, cardboard, egg and fungus as we could bear, we went back down to the lobby to ask if there had been any news.

Our travel agent on the phone said it looked like it was definitely cancelled.

She called someone at the airline and he confirmed that it was indeed cancelled, though they hadn’t officially cancelled it yet.

The woman at the hotel check in desk said it was likely cancelled and that people didn’t tend to get taken to the hotel unless they’re meant to spend the night.

We really didn’t want to spend the night there, nor did we fancy waiting around there until the next evening with the horde of staring passengers in hope that another flight could be arranged for us.  The October holiday is notoriously overbooked.

A German couple in the lobby had the same idea as we had and we shared a taxi back to the airport, got our tickets stamped with the official airline chop, made our way downstairs to the agency’s desk, explained the situation and officially cancelled our tickets and applied for a full refund. Everyone was very polite and it went very smoothly.

As we walked out toward the exit around 8:30pm, with the receipts for our officially cancelled tickets in hand, I happened to look up at the Departures board.

Datong: Delayed until 9:35pm.

Delayed? 

Delayed.

Just delayed.

Not cancelled.

Delayed.

We taxi’d home and drank a beer in silence before going to bed, dejected.

After my Cambodian rabid monkey bite and Doug’s Sri Lankan fractured spine, we’re starting to feel like travel isn’t exactly on our side this year.  Maybe the universe is trying to tell us something.

Anyone out there any good at interpreting universal hints?


Comments

19 responses to “How Not to Travel in China During the October National Holiday”

  1. Sally Avatar

    Aww, sorry it did not work out! I think all the universal signs are pointing to Wuxi. (I mentioned the smiley cartoon suns in the weather report, right?)

    1. MaryAnne Avatar
      MaryAnne

      Will you have to work next weekend to make up for the holiday? I’ll see if I can find tickets to Wuxi, in spite of the holiday train madness. I need a drink.

  2. Sasha Avatar

    I’m still getting over the inland typhoon!!! Really, are they mad!!! I’m heading to Inner Mongolia and I certainly haven’t heard of any inland typhoons lol. I guess that what they call mechanical issues!!!

    1. MaryAnne Avatar
      MaryAnne

      Inner Mongolia? So jealous! Be careful of those inland typhoons!

  3. Sarah Avatar

    But it was all worth it, right??

    For the creme brulee macchiato, I mean.

    1. MaryAnne Avatar
      MaryAnne

      The creme brulee macchiato was totally worth it. I just wish I’d ordered a grande rather than just a tall one.

  4. Heather GG Avatar

    Sorry! I’m in Beijing for the holiday and it is so nice since everyone else left town. Maybe Shanghai is the same?

    I once had a flight from Beijing’s smaller Nanyuan Airport to Linyi, the city I was living in at the time. Just about the time we were supposed to board, the China United Airline guy walked to the front of the gate area and made some kind of announcement, saying the name Linyi. A big crowd of people got up and followed him. So I tagged along. We were led out of the terminal and on to a bus, which took us to a nearby hotel. Through several agonizing conversations in Chinglish, I learned we were to wait in our rooms until the plane was ready. My questions of: Why was it delayed, what was the cause? How long? were met with strange silence. Why ask why? Several hours later and one meal wherein I was the sole source of entertainment, we were called down to the lobby, reboarded on the bus, and sent back to the airport to the waiting plane. Strangest air travel related China experience of my life.

    1. MaryAnne Avatar
      MaryAnne

      Actually, Shanghai is nice and empty now, but still… it would have been great to go away. Your plane experience sounds exactly like ours, except they were adamant that it was cancelled. And you know, maybe it was and maybe it wasn’t. We tried looking it up on the airport website last night but it said it had left on time as scheduled, at 5pm. Which it hadn’t. Very confusing.

  5. Steve Avatar

    Not helpful, but I went to the Hanging Monastery and the Grottoes a few years ago and it’s definitely worth persevering to get there when you get another opportunity.

    As mentioned above, it’s wonderful in Beijing now it’s so quiet, but we’re heading to somewhere called Aer in Inner Mongolia.

    1. MaryAnne Avatar
      MaryAnne

      I do still want to go see them. Am feeling quite let down today, especially after we saw the departures board saying our flight probably still existed, even after all the confirmations of it being cancelled! Sometimes this country just confuses the hell out of me…

      Oh, and Inner Mongolia sounds wonderful! It’s on my go-to list.

  6. Alexandra Avatar
    Alexandra

    Unfortunate events, but what an ending to this blogpost!! Does this mean we will see Thanksgiving dinner Wok style?

    1. MaryAnne Avatar
      MaryAnne

      I’m contemplating something pumpkin’y or sweet potatoey… not sure what though. Neither Doug nor I are big enough meat eaters to be able to deal with a whole roasted chicken, let alone a turkey (if we could even get one here). Maybe I could somehow stuff a few solitary chicken breasts with stuffing and pan fry them in the wok? Would that be too weird?

  7. Alex Avatar

    I’m sorry your trip didn’t work out! I’ve been in China a month, and traveled to Xi’an during the October holiday. Let me say, you were right to plan a trip to somewhere a little less crowded! Half hour bus rides suddenly took 2 1/2 hours, the line for the Terracotta Warriors bus looped backwards and forwards three times, and exhibits turned into crowded, pushing mosh pits. Next time, I’ll travel during a less busy time.

    1. MaryAnne Avatar
      MaryAnne

      We’d travelled a lot around China during national holidays for the past 3 years and couldn’t bear another round. Last October we went to Chengdu. Could barely see the pandas through the hordes and the queue to see the Leshan buddha was so long that after 90 min of waiting we gave up when we realized we were barely 15% along. We kind of saw the top of the head but no more as the endless queue was needed to take you down to the viewing area. Argh.

      We actually spent this week in the flat being really lazy and anti social, emerging only to go out for meals when necessary. Quite nice, actually!

  8. Audrey Avatar

    Oh nooo, who has ever hear of an inland typhoon anyway?! I’m sorry you didn’t get to visit Daaah-taaawng. The hanging monastery looks fantastic from that photo!

    1. MaryAnne Avatar
      MaryAnne

      I have a feeling that ‘inland typhoon’ must be code for ‘engine trouble’ or ‘pilot is drunk’ or something. Still disappointed but am determined that someday I will see the wonders of Daaaaaaah-taaaawng!

  9. Shanghai Travel Guide Avatar

    If you’re able to cure it, it’s advisable to not travel locally throughout a few days around October first. The most recent statistics launched openly come from 2000 but based on these, 59.82 million people traveled throughout National Day holidays that year. Over two-thirds of hotel beds were reserved in main tourist locations for example Beijing and Shanghai. However, if you’re in China, you will find the elements is generally excellent, and after October 1, just about everything from shops and restaurants towards the publish office is going to be open for business.

    1. MaryAnne Avatar
      MaryAnne

      Hi,

      I do know not to travel during peak times but as we are teachers, these are our *only* holidays. That’s why we chose Datong– because it’d be relatively empty. In previous years we had attempted much more crowded places like Beijing, Hangzhou, Chengdu, Yangshuo, etc. We’ve been here 3 years now so it’s not news to us. If we could go at other times, we would.

  10. Cyril Avatar

    Datong is nice, but i was prefered Guiling for the mix of water and the green vegetation

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